ANDES PEAKS OF ECUADOR

The Andes Mountains of central Ecuador were named The Avenue of Volcanoes in 1802 by famed scientist Alexander von Humboldt. These striking snow-covered peaks line both sides the Pan-American Highway.

The Andes Peaks of central Ecuador attracts thousands climbers every year from around the world. Ecuador's small size and relative close proximity of mountains provides a unique experience for climbers presenting them the opportunity to attack a series of peaks in as little as 2-weeks.

The History of Climbing in Ecuador

Ecuador has been a mountaineer's heaven since British climber Edward Whymper spent two years there in 1879-1880. Whymper was a famous mountaineer with many successful assents in the Alps including the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. When he came to Ecuador with his guides Louis and Jean Carrel, he had his eye on climbing the highest mountain on earth which at the time was considered to be Chimborazo.

Today Whymper is considered the father of mountaineering in Ecuador with an impressive list of first ascents including:

• Chimborazo 20,703 ft
• Antisana 18,715 ft
• Cayambe 18,997 ft
• Illiniza South 17,269 ft
• Sincholagua 16,053 ft
• Cotachaci 16,199 ft
• Saru-Urco 15,337 ft
• Cotopaxi 19,348 ft*
• Corazon 15,704 ft*
• Pichincha 15,986 ft*

Whymper also tried to climb Altar the most technical and difficult mountain in Ecuador which was not successfully climbed until 1963. (*summit had been reached earlier)

Andes Peaks of Note in Ecuador

El Altar
Cotopaxi
Antisana
Illiniza North
Cayambe
Illiniza South
Chimborazo
Pichincha
Corazon
Sangay

El Altar Elevation 17,452 ft (5,319 m)

It doesn't matter where you view it from, this ancient and probably extinct volcano is the most impressive in Ecuador's Andes. The fifth highest, it is the most technical of all the mountains in Ecuador. Known as Capac Urcu in Quichua for Sublime Mountain it was renamed El Altar by the Spanish due to the majesty of the mountain.

Located the western side of Sangay National Park, hiking up to the crater is a spectacular walk including Andes forests, waterfalls and Collanes Valley. The stunning view from the crater includes Chimborazo in the background. There are 9 summits, which form the highest points on the crater. The normal routes are from the outside. The best weather is from December to May but it is often rainy.

The Variant or Arista del Calvario is the most popular route now. To reach the summit includes a class 4 rock climb, traversing the glacier, and an 80 degree climb over rock and ice climb, before reaching an ice wall and the last difficult rock section near the summit. From the Hacienda Releche Refugio the ascent takes 12 hours depending on conditions. The trail can be very muddy and rubber boots and full climbing gear is recommended.

Antisana Elevation 18,715 ft (5,704 m)

Due to its position on the edge of the Andes above the Amazon Basin, this rarely climbed peak offers a technical challenge due to its many crevasses and bad weather. The large number of crevasses that opened during the 1997-1998 season has made the main summit route unusable.

Good route finding skills are required. Poor access can make just getting to base camp a challenge. The ascent requires glacier and rock climbing skills and experience with crevasses. Full climbing gear is recommended. The best weather is from December to January. An entry permit is required and can be obtained in Quito.

Chimborazo Elevation 20,703 ft (6,310 m)

Located 93 miles (150 km) south/southwest of Quito, this is the highest peak in Ecuador and the point on the Earth's surface closest to the sun due to the Earth's equatorial bulge. The top of Chimborazo is covered by glaciers.

Chimborazo has five summits, the Whymper (Main) 20,703 ft (6,310 m), Veintemilla 20,562 ft (6,267 m), Northern 20,342 ft (6,200 m), Politecnico (Central) 18,045 ft (5,500 m) and Nicolas Martinez (Eastern) 18,045 ft (5,500 m).

The standard routes are the Normal (Veintemilla) and Whymper routes from the refuge on the western side of the mountains. Chimborazo is a difficult climb due to its elevation and should only be attempted by climbers with experience. An ice ax, crampons and rope are required. The Hermanos Carrel Refugio is at 15,750 ft (4,800 m) near the end of the road. There are 8 bunk beds with mattresses and 1 private room for 2 cooking facilities, running water, electricity and a toilet.

Summit attempts begin between 10 pm and 11pm to return to the hut by noon and avoid rock fall dangers caused by the sun hitting the glacier at el corridor. It is 8 - 9 hours from the Refugio to the summit and another 4 hours to descend the mountain. The best weather is in December and between June to September.

Corazon Elevation 15,710 ft (4,700 m)

Climbing this extinct volcano can be a long day from Quito. The climb begins in the inter-Andean valley hiking through fields and pastures at 9,187 ft (2,800 m). As you reach higher elevations the trail passes through the wind blown paramo. The final ascent is a scramble up a large rock band to the summit. It is worth having hard hats, but a rope is usually not needed.

Cotopaxi Elevation 19,348 ft (5,897 m)

One of the world's most perfectly shaped volcanoes, and the second highest peak in Ecuador. It last erupted in 1877 and it is currently emitting gas. From the summit, all of the other major peaks of Ecuador can be seen. Cotoxpaxi's Jose-Ribas Refugio offers climbers 30 beds with mattresses, a kitchen and water.

Cotopaxi is one of our most popular climbs a summit attempt begins from the Refugio around 1am and takes 5 to 8 hours. It is important to check snow conditions before setting out. An Ice Ax, Rope and Crampons are required.

Wilhelm Reiss and Angel Escobar made the first accent in 1872 on a southwestern face route. Today the standard route climbs Cotopaxi from the north. The best weather is in December and January though there is also very good weather between July and September. Conditions on Cotopaxi allow for year round climbing of the peak.

Cotopaxi National Park is the most popular National Park on the Ecuadorian Mainland. For more information please refer to our Cotopaxi page.

Illiniza North Elevation 17,061 ft (5,200 m)

Twenty years ago this was a glacial peak. In the early accounts of this mountain the climbers describe a technical ascent over heavy glaciers. Today the glaciers have completely disappeared, however in the first half of the year this peak still receives a covering of snow. While this mountain can be summated in 2-4 hours it is a very long day if you are departing and returning to Quito. It is worth doing this extinct volcano over 2 days, spending a night in the Refugio located in the saddle between the 2 peaks at 15,585 ft (4,750 m) The Refugio has 12 bunks and cooking facilities and fills quickly.

The attack on Illiniza North's summit at begins at dawn and involves a trek along a knife-edge ridge, on a well-marked trail. In a couple of places it is necessary to leave the ridge to go around boulders, and it is advisable to have some protection including ropes, harness, and hard hats. In the first half of the year there can be a snow covering on the ridge and peak snow gear can be needed, including crampons and ice axe. A compass and map are suggested for the descent.

Illiniza South Elevation 17,268 ft (5263 m)

A technical 4-hour snow and ice climb to challenge even the most experienced climber. The steep snow slopes, crevasses, and the 50-60 ice wall are rewarded at the summit with a spectacular view across the Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi less than 19 miles (30 km) away. Whymper team member's Jean and Luis Carrel first climbed the peak in 1880. The best weather can be found from June to January. Full climbing gear is needed.

Pichincha Elevation 15,695 ft (4,784 m)

Pichincha Volcano is made up of 3 peaks the 3rd peak Guagua Pichincha 15,695ft (4784m) is the active crater. This volcano stands over Quito and has a long history of eruptions. From the edge of the paramo the hike to the summit takes about 4-hours. To reach the top there is a 7ft (2m) scramble, but no equipment is needed. From the summit we have an excellent view of Quito below us, and the Avenue of Volcanoes to the south. Guagua is particularly prone to clouding in and sudden storms.

Sangay Elevation 17,160 ft (5,230 m)

The most photographed of Ecuador's peaks and the most active volcano in the world with activity every 10 minutes. To reach the volcano you first have to hike for 3 days. The climbing itself is pretty straightforward but because of the ever-present risk of an eruption this is the most dangerous peak in Ecuador and helmets are required. The best weather is between December and April.