COASTAL ECUADOR

Coastal Ecuador is the expanse of land between the Pacific Ocean and the Cordillera Occidental (the western range of the Andes Mountains) encompassing the coastal lowlands and coastal mountains. The land of the coast is made up of beautiful unspoiled white sand beaches and fertile agricultural land. Approximately 49% of Ecuador's population resides in Coastal Ecuador. The climate is hot and humid with average temperatures between 76 and 90 F.

On the coast, the dry season runs from about June to December. Temperatures drop to about 16 C and it is often overcast with a damp mist (garua) settling in and the sun can disappear for three months at a time. A little way inland the garua breaks up and you can have bright sunshine. The pattern is roughly the same as in the Galapagos except the garua starts earlier on the mainland and finishes later.

January to June the temperatures warms up, days are bright and sunny with an occasional heavy rain. This is the best time of year along the beach. The El Nino current can heavily modify the coastal area weather, a strong current flowing in January from the Gulf of Panama making the air and water temperatures soar. The wind comes around the north and it rains. The El Nino in 1998 caused major problems as roads and bridges being destroyed and whole towns cut off for months. The heavy rains washed the Canoa forest into the ocean.

Coastal Regions

The highway traveling along the coast of Ecuador is frequently called The Route of the Sun   or The Spondulous Route. These regions have been inhabited for more than 10,000 years due to the fertile valleys and pleasant year round temperatures.

Guayaquil is Ecuador's largest city, principle port and the economic center of Ecuador. The city is located near the head of the Guayaquil Gulf on the Guayas River. Most of the nations import and export trade pass through the city's deep water port. Major industries in Guayaquil include shrimp fishing, petroleum refining, food processing, machinery manufacturing, and the manufacturing of consumer goods.

Many of the most popular beaches of Ecuador are located a short drive from Guayaquil. Salinas, Playas, Libertad, Punta Carnero, Ayangue, Valdivia are all within a two-hour drive of Guayaquil. There the waves of the Pacific Ocean crash along lengthy white sand beaches. These towns are a quick get-away and a perfect spot for sailing, sport fishing or relaxing in the sun.

Whale watching, fishing, and surfing are popular sports on the coast of Ecuador. Many of the towns and villages along the coast are unspoiled and tourism is limited to national visitors. In recent years the areas along the coast have been gaining attention as a top international retirement destination.

South of Guayaquil

Traveling South of Guayaquil there are a number of small agricultural based towns. This is the banana capital of Ecuador. There are few tourist destinations on the Pan American Highway in Southern Ecuador. Most visitors on this route are traveling toward the boarder with Peru.

Machala is the major city in this region serviced by the Santa Rosa Airport which has small commuter flights from Quito, Guayaquil and Piura, Peru. Banana enthusiast should spend some time at the Banana festival held every September.

Reaching the boarder of Peru is the town of Huayaquillis. The boarder crossing between Ecuador and Peru is rather easy. Travelers must first stop at the immigration booth on the Ecuador side located when you first arrive to Huayaquillis. At the boarder you will need to present your passport and tourist card. The official will stamp both indicating you have left the country. The boarder is a bridge which you are free to walk across. The area is thick with vendors selling discounted products from both countries. Keep an eye on your things as petty theft is common. Once on the Lima side you will need to stop in at the immigration booth at Aguas Verdes about a mile past the border then you are officially in Peru.

North of Guayaquil

North of Guayaquil are a number of Ecuadorian Beach Resort towns, cities and fishing villages located north of Guayaquil. The cities of Esmeraldes, Manta and have airports with service from Quito.

Santa Elena Peninsula

The Santa Elena Peninsula near Salinas is known for its world-class yacht harbor and deep-sea fishing. In contrast the traditional fishermen can be seen sailing the same waters in balsa rafts, catching fish for the local population. There are several comfortable hotels to choose from and the long; twin crescent shaped beaches makes the area popular for national tourism.

Fisherman has set many world records from Salinas. Black Marlin, Blue Marlin, Stripped Marlin, Sailfish, One-Eyed Tuna, Wahoo, and Dolphin fish are among the fish frequently caught. There are several yacht clubs in the area with world-class fishing boats ready to be chartered.

The coastal lowlands are much more than beach resorts and deep-sea fishing. If you do want to spend time kicking-back and hanging-out there is Montanita, Ecuador's premiere surfing spot, where you can really feel at home. Peak season is between December and April but hard-core surfers can be seen here year round. The town has a few hostels and a very laid back atmosphere. Restaurants serve seafood and vegetarian dishes prepared for the international surfers who seek out this remote surfing spot.

Historically the Santa Elena Peninsula has been home to civilizations for thousands of years. The first known culture of Ecuador, the Las Vegas lived along the Peninsula between the Guayas Basin and Salinas. The museum Museo de los Amantes de Sumpa near Santa Elena houses displays of the Las Vegas and tells the story of their culture. Living in houses and making textiles they enjoyed a varied economy and they existed by farming crops including maize and squash, hunting, and exploiting the mangroves for wood, oysters and other seafood.

In 1971 scientists discovered the artifacts of the Valdivia Culture. The excavations established a coastal village near Salango dating back some 5000 years dating to around 3500BC. The Valdivias were the first Americans to use pottery. They created bowls, jars and female statues out of clay both for everyday life and for use in religious ceremonies. They navigated the seas on rafts with sails and established a trade network with tribes in the Andes and the Amazon. Artifacts from the Valdivia culture can be seen in many museums around the country as well as a small museum in the town Valdivia and neighboring Chanduy.

Machalilla

Machalilla National Park is one of the largest untouched cloud forests in Ecuador and the only protected tropical dry forest in South America. The park is exceptional for its archeological treasures and for wildlife viewing.

Many of the same birds and animals living in the Galapagos also exist on the coast near Machalilla. June to September is whale season for the coast. Humpback whales migrate from Antarctica to the Isla de la Plata channel to breed. Sailing from Puerto Lopez visitors can easily view these giant creatures of the deep. The journey includes a stop at Isla de la Plata, home to a couple of pairs of Waved Albatross, as well as large numbers of other sea birds, including Red-Footed, Blue-Footed and Masked Boobies, Frigatebirds, Tropicbirds and much more.

The Presley Norton Archaeological Museum in nearby Salango houses a magnificent collection of jewelry, art work and everyday items dating back 3000 years. Their artwork differed from that of their predecessors (the Valdivia) displaying a greater attention to detail, new pots and vessels appeared and spouted pots were invented.

Manta

Manta is Ecuador's second largest harbor. It is the tuna capital of the world and one of the busiest fishing port in the world. Hundreds of Tuna Boats fish the waters sending their catch to worldwide. International tuna operations include Bumble Bee, Van Camps, Star-Kist among others.

Dining on fresh fish is a must when visiting Manta. The beach is littered grass huts selling beers and ceviche. While further back cement buildings offer a wide variety of seafood cuisine.

Manta is a popular weekend destination for the working class of Quito. Though it is not an international style resort, Manta is an interesting place to stop at if it is along your way. There are several nice hotels making Manta an interesting beach destination on the continent of Ecuador.

The Banco Central Museum in Manta houses a small but good collection of ancient artifacts from the 2000 year old Huancavilca-Manteno Culture.

Bahia de Carquez

The Bahia de Caraquez is at the head of a very special wetlands habitat. The area was once a dense rain forest some of which has been cleared for cattle farms and agriculture it is a picturesque setting umbrella shaped saman trees and palms. On one island in the estuary less 100 meters long there are 46 species of bird have been reported! Just north of Bahia de Caraquez is the Rio Muchacho, a traditional farm with contrasting experiments in perma-culture and non-polluting agriculture. The main form of transport in this area is horse or mule.

Esmeraldas

Esmeraldas can be used as a base to visit nearby destinations. It is a busy commercial port. Though visited by some national tourists it has less to offer than other areas on the coast. Local shrimp farming has destroyed many of the areas mangroves. Gold mines, timber, cattle ranching, tobacco and cocoa are among the local economy. Nearby is the outlet of the oil pipeline from the jungle. The oil shipped to the town of Balao where it is refined locally before being exported.

Mosquitoes, malaria and dengue fever are a serious problem in this area during the rainy season. Travelers visiting the province should take care to avoid mosquito bites by wearing long sleeve shirts and long pants, using a good insect repellent containing DEET, taking Malaria prophylactics and using mosquito netting at night (available at most lodging).

San Lorenzo

Near the border of Colombia is San Lorenzo, it was known as the final destination of the once dramatic train ride from the Andes town of Ibarra. Though the train no longer operates and has been replaced by a bus San Lorenzo is a growing city for Colombia refugees giving the city a warm and friendly new feel in the last few years.

Notes on Traveling on the Coast of Ecuador

It is particularly important to take care with drinking water along the coast, as cholera exists. Anti-malarial medicine is recommended particularly when visiting inland areas, where the temperatures are not modified by the cold Humboldt Current and so remain high throughout the year. Dengue fever and leshmiasis can also be problems making it essential to have good personal insect repellents and make sure to cover up with long clothes in the evenings and mosquito netting at night.

While most travelers to the coastal regions of Ecuador never have a problem it should be born in mind that the high levels of unemployment, particularly around San Lorenzo, Esmeraldas, Manta and Guayaquil have led to an increase in crime. Travelers would be well advised to take nothing with them that is of high cash or personal value. Things like airline tickets are really hard to replace and so are better left in Quito if you are to return there. Try not to travel to heavily weighed-down by backpacks and luggage, and make sure you insure those belongings you take.

There is nowhere in Ecuador where you can sunbathe topless or nude, as by law there is public access to the whole seashore.