SANTIAGO

Also known as James and San Salvador the central location and numerous landing sites make Santiago a part of almost every Galapagos itinerary. A favorite island for pirates and whalers, Santiago has a long human history as well as some outstanding opportunities for wildlife viewing. Highlights of a visit include the fur seal grotto, pink flamingo lagoon as well as the chance to see Galapagos Hawks and vermilion fly catchers.

Once rich in vegetation, feral goats were released on the island in the 1880's. The goats thrived in the lush environment eating everything in sight and their numbers grew to over 100,000.

Their presence has severely impacted the island's flora and fauna. The national park service working toward eradication, have improved the situation. Still, it is not unusual for visitors to see goats or signs of their presence.

During the 1920's and again in the 1960's human impact again took its toll on Santiago. Near Puerto Egas salt mining operations were attempted. Great effort was put into extracting salt from the crater though little profit was made and the venture was abandoned. Equipment and building were left behind some still remaining on the island today.

Visitor sites are located on both the east and west sides of the island, making multiple visits likely on longer trips. Many cruises may stop here en route to Tower or include sites in conjunction with visiting Bartolome or Sombrero Chino.

Santiago Map and Location

Santiago is located north-west of the center of Galapagos.  One of the larger islands Santiago is 585 km square with a maximum elevation of 907 meters.  The central volcano is 3018 feet and last erupted in 1890. The visitor site at Sullivan Bay is frequently visited both by day tours boats from Santa Cruz as well as those aboard a Galapagos Cruise.  Due to the distance from Santa Cruz both Puerto Egas and Espumilla Beach are only visited while aboard a Galapagos Cruise.

Puerto Egas

A visit to Puerto Egas begins with a wet landing on the dark sand beaches of James Bay. The visit begins with a walk along the rocky coast giving visitors the opportunity to view some of the Galapagos Island's best tide pools. Sponges, snails, hermit crabs, barnacles and fish including the endemic four-eyed blenny can be seen. The walk also presents visitors with a variety of shore birds, marine iguanas, sally light foot crabs and sea lions.

There are two interesting excursions normally visited from Puerto Egas. The first is a short walk from the landing site brings visitors to the site of one of the Galapagos' first entrepreneur endeavors. For decades salt was extracted from a local salt crater. The industry was abandoned in the 1950's leaving behind a variety of rusted old machines and parts of buildings. The trail follows the path once used by wagon trains to the crater cone.

Bird lovers will be delighted with the opportunity to catch a glimpse of one of Darwins finch, the endemic Galapagos hawk, or the colorful vermillion flycatcher.

The second excursion begins just a short distance beyond the tide pools is the fur seal grotto. Fur seals and sea lions can be seen swimming in the rocky lava ringed pools. This may be the only opportunity visitors have to see and swim with fur seals.

Fur seals were once hunted to near extinction for their coats. The Galapagos Fur Seal is the smallest of the fur seals found in the southern hemisphere, now compare in numbers with the sea lions. During the day they hide from the hot equatorial sun in shelves or caves of the rocky lava cliffs. At night they feed on squid and fish avoiding the sharks, which are their natural predator.

The crystal clear water, volcanic bridges, fur seals and sea lions make this a magnificent place for swimming and snorkeling.

Puerto Egas Visit Information

The visit to Puerto Egas is a 2 hour walk with a 1/2 hour snorkel

Landing:	Wet Landing
Highlights:	Fur Seals, Tide Pools and Abandoned Salt Mine
Conditions:	Walk can be strenuous due to bright sun
Notes:	Going into the crater is prohibited and dangerous
Activity Level:	Medium

Puerto Egas Wildlife

Yellow Warbler
Vermillion Flycatcher
Galapagos Mockingbird
Galapagos Snake
Lava Heron
Galapagos Hawk
Brown Noddy
Great Blue Heron
Yellow-Crowned Night Heron
Marine Iguana
Lava Lizard
Galapagos Fur Seal
Galapagos Sea Lion
Galapagos Dove
Galapagos Flycatcher
Brown Pelican
Cactus Finch
Large Ground Finch
Medium Ground Finch
Small Ground Finch
Sharp-Billed Ground Finch
Blue Footed Booby
Nazca Booby
Galapagos Green Sea Turtle
Semi Terrestrial Hermit Crab
Sally Light Foot Crab

Buccaneer's Cove and Espumilla Beach

Less than an hour north of Puerto Egas, Buccaneers Cove served as a safe haven for pirates, sailors and whalers during the 18th and 19th century. Anchoring in the protected bay they were able to make much needed repairs to their ships while other men went a shore to stock up on salt, tortoises, fresh water and firewood. Several years ago ceramic jars were found at the bottom of the bay, the disregarded cargo of some mariner from years gone by. Inside the jars were supplies of wine and marmalade.

The cove is very scenic with steep cliffs made of tuff formations and the dark reddish-purple sand beach. This dramatic landscape is made all the more impressive by the hundreds of seabirds perched atop the cliffs. Two of the more recognizable rock formations are known as the "monk" and "elephant rock".

Neighboring Esmpumilla Beach was changed by El Nino the brackish lagoons here underwent a process of sedimentation and the flamingo colony which once existed here has moved elsewhere.

Today the main attractions at Espumilla Beach are a palo santo forest, beach and the landscape. The beach is an important site for nesting marine turtles (Chelonia midas agassizi). One of the main predators of sea turtle eggs were pigs, which have been entirely eradicated on Santiago. In addition thanks to the Isabela Project the 120,000 goats which once lived on Santiago have also now been eradicated and the vegetation of the island is returning to a natural state.

The trail makes a loop heading over a knob into a sparely forested area then back to the beach. Along the way those with a watchful eye may spot a variety of Darwin finches or a vermilion fly catcher. Once back at the beach visitors may have the chance to swim or snorkel time permitting.

Espumilla Beach Visit Information

The visit to Espumilla Beach is approximately 2 hours across the beach towards the lagoon and waterfall.

Landing:	Wet Landing
Highlights:	Palo Santo Forest with land birds and stunning landscape
Conditions:	Landing can be difficult due to surf
Notes:	Be careful not to disturb the Sea Turtle nests on the beach
Activity Level:	Medium to High

Bucaneer's Cove and Espumilla Beach Wildlife

Yellow Warbler
Galapagos Snake
Greater Flamingo
Lava Heron
Striated Heron
Galapagos Hawk
Great Blue Heron
Lava Lizard
Galapagos Sea Lion
Galapagos Dove
Galapagos Flycatcher
White Cheeked Pintail Duck
Brown Pelican
Small Tree Finch
Cactus Finch
Large Ground Finch
Medium Ground Finch
Small Ground Finch
Sharp-Billed Ground Finch
Vegetarian Finch
Galapagos Green Sea Turtle
Semi Terrestrial Hermit Crab
Sally Light Foot Crab

Sullivan Bay

In the late 1800's the volcano on Santiago was very active.  The lava flow at Sullivan Bay was created during a 1897 eruption when the lava flowed eastward towards Bartolome. Edges of the lava field advance in tongues, hot magma raced ahead, flowing around and eventually engulfing any obstacles in its way. The extreme heat created by the flow would cause obstacles like trees to evaporate, leaving behind only an imprint of the life which once existed.

The Sullivan Bay lava field is a variety of interesting patterns. The shapes and textures of trees, which once existed there and hornitos caused when pockets of gas or water trapped under the lava exploded. The Sullivan Bay lava is known a panoehoe (Hawaiian for rope). This thin-skinned lava's molten material cools down after an eruption causing the surface materials to buckle creating a rope like appearance. panoehoe lava is rare to the rest of the world, but is common to the volcanoes of Hawaii and the Galapagos Islands.

In the nearly 100 year since the Sullivan Bay flow only a few plants have managed to take root in this harsh environment. The low-lying mollugo is commonly the first plant to emerge from a bare lava field. Together with the lava cactus (brachycereus) found here these plants are evidence of life returning to Sullivan Bay.

The walk takes approximately an hour to an hour and a half. Returning to the shoreline black and white oystercatchers can be seen fishing for crabs and mollusks in the tide pools.

Sullivan Bay Visit Information

The visit to Sullivan Bay is2 hours on a 1.5 km path over lava and sand

Landing:	Dry Landing
Highlights:	The Geological forces that created the Galapagos
Conditions:	Dry rocky trail be careful not to damage the hornitos
Notes:	The light is better for photos in the afternoon
Activity Level:	Medium

Sullivan Bay Wildlife

Lava Heron
Striated Heron
Galapagos Hawk
Great Blue Heron
Lava Lizard
Galapagos Penguin
Large Ground Finch
Medium Ground Finch
Small Ground Finch
Sally Light Foot Crab

Learn More About Santiago

Charles Darwin in Galapagos
Diving Santiago